At Old Jeffrey, we have a team with over 80 years of accumulated experience that guarantees flawless workmanship and the use of the highest quality fabrics.

We currently have 3 types of morning coats :

1. Ready-to-Wear morning coat

2. Tailor -made morning coat

3. Bespoke morning coat

1. READY TO WEAR JACKET (RTW)

Our Ready-to-wear collection is a collection of pre-made morning coats made with 100% Super S110 wool fabrics from the Italian fashion house Vitale Barberis Canónico: made with a pattern calibrated and perfected by our team of pattern makers.

In this case, each customer's shoulders determine the appropriate size; that is, once the morning coat model is selected, we recommend the customer's perfect fit across the shoulders. After this step, the garment is adjusted to their body measurements for a perfect fit.

These garments feature high-quality finishes, such as our notched and peak lapels, interlined and unfused interiors, workable buttonholes, and many other details that won't go unnoticed.

“READY TO WEAR” MODELS

1. A medium-gray 3-piece morning suit : a tailcoat, waistcoat, and trousers, all in medium gray. Three shades of gray are typically available: charcoal gray, medium gray, and light gray. Charcoal gray is recommended only for evening weddings, light gray is recommended only for daytime weddings, while medium gray is appropriate, by protocol, for both daytime and evening weddings. The RRP for this morning suit model is €895.95 (tailcoat + waistcoat + trousers).
   
   

2. Navy blue three-piece morning suit : tailcoat, waistcoat, and trousers, all in navy blue. This is an increasingly popular choice. The navy blue morning suit has been gaining ground over the classic morning suit and is a great choice for both grooms and groomsmen. The RRP for this morning suit style is €895.95 (tailcoat + waistcoat + trousers).

3. Classic two-piece morning suit : black tailcoat and gray striped trousers. The waistcoat is not included in this case, as the waistcoat combinations selected by customers for this type of morning suit are numerous and varied. The RRP for this morning suit model is €795.95 (Fallcoat + Trousers).

In addition, each season we create new morning coat styles that are different from those in our permanent collection; that is, morning coats with herringbone weave, Prince of Wales weave, etc.

RECOMMENDED ADVANCE TIME

We recommend coming to Old Jeffrey at least three weeks in advance. After the week of fittings, we schedule a new morning suit fitting. If any additional adjustments are required due to the appearance of small wrinkles or to fine-tune the garment, we will again require an additional week to ensure the garment is perfect.

Typically, for this type of tailcoat, a single fitting is almost always sufficient; however, we always recommend coming to see us with that extra time in case any additional adjustments are needed.

2. JACKET “MADE TO MEASURE” (MTM)

In the Made to Measure service, our tailors take measurements with the help of a morning suit called a "witness," which we have digitalized on our central computer, and proceed to make anatomical modifications, modifying the base pattern so that it becomes our client's exclusive pattern.

In this type of morning coat, absolutely everything can be customized: the shape and width of the lapels, the pocket design, the trouser and waistcoat styles, as well as choosing all the fittings, such as the lining, the fleece, the buttons and the thread with which these buttons are sewn, as well as embroidering the initials on the inside of the jacket.

“MADE TO MEASURE” OPTIONS

There are countless options within our two-piece morning coat (tailcoat and trousers) and three-piece morning coat (tailcoat, trousers, and waistcoat) designs.

RECOMMENDED ADVANCE TIME

We recommend coming to Old Jeffrey two months in advance, as it takes five weeks to make the garment. Afterward, we will arrange a fitting with the customer. Shorter turnaround times are available on a case-by-case basis and subject to specific requests (please consult our tailoring team directly).

Once the garment is made, we use the first fitting to detect any wrinkles. If any adjustments are required, we would need a full week to carry them out.

3. “BESPOKE” MORNING COAT

Finally, we present our Bespoke tailoring line , also known as Handmade Measure.

In this case, our tailors take anatomical measurements directly from the client and design the morning coat with the purest details of traditional bespoke tailoring, that is, hand-stitched buttonholes and stitching, a fully lined interior without any glue or fusing, plain or printed cupro or viscose linings, etc.

After the cutting process, the pieces are assembled using basting stitches and loose stitches, and a first fitting is done, which we call "the plumb line." At this point, we will have the skeleton of the garment—sleeveless in the case of the frock coat and unfinished lengths and widths in the case of the trousers and vest.

Once the "fit" fitting is complete, it's our turn: we'll work in the workshop to correct details, incorporate the sleeves, and finalize the garment. The customer is then called in for a second "fine-tuning" fitting, and if there are any additional minor details that need correcting, a third final fitting is performed before delivering the perfect garment to the customer.

“BESPOKE” OPTIONS

We work with a pre-estimated quote, which will be evaluated and notified to the client after their informational appointment, during which we will discuss the design and manufacturing requirements.

RECOMMENDED ADVANCE TIME

For this type of tailoring, we require at least three months to have the garments finished. Once we take the measurements, we manually design the pattern for the client in our workshop and then manually cut the garment.

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MADE TO MEASURE AND BESPOKE SERVICES

The difference lies mainly in the manufacturing process after the customer's measurements have been taken:

1. Making the pattern after taking the client's measurements . In the case of Made-to-Measure tailoring , to obtain the client's pattern, we use samples with a base pattern, against which we make corrections and obtain the client's final pattern. Whereas, in Bespoke tailoring , measurements are taken directly, and the pattern is obtained manually, using calculations and curve generation based on tailor's rulers.
   
   

2. Fabric cutting . For Made-to-Measure tailoring , the pattern obtained for each client is digitized, and the fabric scrap chosen for the garment is cut very precisely using a cutting machine. Meanwhile, in the Bespoke service , our tailor cuts the garment manually.
   
   

Garment assembly. In the case of Made to Measure tailoring, our sewing team consists of 10 people who will carry out the final construction of the garment. Each team member specializes in a particular part of the garment (sleeves, front, etc.), and the garment is finally assembled together. In this process, the stitching is mixed (long stitches with a sewing machine and details finished by hand). In the case of Bespoke artisan tailoring, however, the entire construction will be carried out manually by our specialized tailor.